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Gallipoli 加利波利


T
he 'Sphinx' or Sari Bair (Yellow Slope) is part of the Kocacimentepe Range


Lookout from Anzac area
 

                 (click pictures to enlarge    點擊圖片可放大)

加利波利戰役紀念博物館


The museum and sculptures at the Gallipoli
Peninsula

加利波利是個什麼樣的地方?如果不是跟着這個旅行團﹐我沒想到要來。但到了之後﹐有意外收穫。

加利波利是第一次世界大戰時的一個重大戰役發生地。因這戰役的慘烈和荒謬﹐每年都有人到在這裡舉行紀念會。尤其是澳洲和紐西蘭的旅人﹐迢迢萬里趕來追悼。我的旅行團十三人﹐九人從紐澳來。他們告訴我﹐十之八九的紐澳居民都能與這些死亡的士兵搭到一點遠親的關係。(目前這兩國的遊客到土耳其不用簽証)

1915425日﹐協約國的盟軍在加利波利半島登陸﹐英軍指揮的登陸部隊主力是澳洲軍和紐西蘭軍,還有法國師和英印部隊,共約七八千人。那一天﹐一舉成懺。事情是這樣發生的﹕紐澳聯軍的先頭部隊在黎明前登陸。士兵們在黑暗中迷失了方向,把船划到離指定登陸地區以北一英里的地方﹐見到的是陡峭的山崖。土耳其軍從高處的戰壕向他們掃射。這批紐澳先頭部隊﹐連敵人的影子都沒來得及看見﹐即被全部殲滅在沙灘上,岸邊海水全染成了紅色。這沙灘後來叫Anzac Cove,為紀念澳紐軍團 - Australian and New Zealand Army Corps

幾年前我讀過一篇齊邦媛教授寫的《追憶橋》﹐那是她在拜訪了紐西蘭基督城的追憶橋後﹐因困惑而寫﹐十分感人。我在紐西蘭時曾特意造訪﹐並不清楚紐西蘭追憶的事件發生何處。原來追憶橋追憶的是這場在土耳其加利波利戰役的大死亡。而我現在正在這裡﹗

盟軍為什麼要攻佔加利波利半島﹖因為它是一個軍事要地﹐能控制達達尼爾海峽。達達尼爾海峽是通向俄國黑海港口的必經之路﹐控制它﹐進佔伊斯坦堡就不難。那麼盟軍從愛琴海通往俄國的補給線就順暢達成。

當時的海軍大臣丘吉爾極力倡導攻打加利波利。加利波利半島有六十英里長,四到十三英里寬﹐荒蕪多山。盟軍對此地毫無所知﹐而土耳其這邊的軍領是凱末爾

191619日盟軍從加利波利半島撤退。這場戰役歷時九個月﹐據記載﹐盟軍先後投入近50萬部隊,傷亡達26萬餘。土耳其軍亦投入50萬部隊,傷亡約25萬餘。

我的紐西蘭旅伴在看完這裡的博物館後說﹕They died for nothing! 我們國家現在沒有打仗的軍隊了。

 * * *

What kind of place is Gallipoli?  I wouldn’t have come here by myself if I hadn’t joined the tour group.  But after being here I found unexpected enrichment.

Gallipoli was the place where an important battle occurred in World War I.  People now come here every year to hold memorial services because of the battle’s tragic ferocity and absurdity, especially for people from Australia and New Zealand, who travel a long way to be here.  We had nine people from New Zealand and Australia in our group of thirteen.  They told me that eight or nine out of ten of the New Zealanders and Australians could find some blood relations with the soldiers who died here in the battle.  (Right now people from these two countries do not need visa to visit Turkey.)


The harbor at Çannakkale where we took
ferry to Gallipoli Peninsula.


In Çannakkale town

On April 25, 1915, the allied forces of the Entente Powers landed on the Gallipoli peninsula.  The main forces under the British command were from Australia and New Zealand.  Together with the French division and the Indian brigade, the landing forces had a total of 78,000 men.  This day, however, turned out to be a day for future repentance.  This was what happened:  The advance unit of the allied troops of New Zealand and Australia landed before dawn.  The soldiers lost their direction in the dark as they paddled their landing boats to an area one mile north of the designated landing zone.  What they faced now was a steep cliff and bombardment by the Turkish batteries from the hilltop.  This advance unit was annihilated on the beach even before seeing their enemy, turning the color of the nearby coast water into red.  The beach was later named Anzac Cove in commemoration of the Australia-New Zealand Army Corps

Several years ago I read an article, “Bridge of Remembrance,” by Prof. Qi Bangyuan, who wrote about her troubling visit to a bridge in the New Zealand city of Christchurch.  I was moved by her writing and made a special trip to see the bridge when I was in New Zealand, though at the time I didn’t know where the event of remembrance had occurred.  Now, being in Gallipoli, I realized that the remembrance was meant for the men who fought and died in battle here!

Why did the allied forces want to capture the Gallipoli peninsula?  It was because the peninsula was in a military strategic position for controlling the Dardanelles strait.  The control of the strait, as it was the only path to reach the Black Sea seaports in Russia (an Entente power), would make it easy to capture Istanbul, thus enabling the supply line of the allied forces to reach Russia without resistance.

It was the British Secretary of Navy, Winston Churchill, who advocated the attack on Gallipoli.  The peninsula was 60-mile long and 4 to 13-mile wide, in a mountainous wilderness region where the allied forces knew little about.  On the other side of the battle, the commander of the Turkish force was Mustafa Kemal.

On January 9, 1916, the allied forces withdrew from the Gallipoli peninsula, after nine months of failed campaign.  Record shows that the allied forces committed a total of close to 500 thousand troops in succession, with more than 260 thousand casualties. Turkey also committed 500 thousand, with about 250 thousand casualties.

My travel companions from New Zealand said, after visiting the museum here, “They died for nothing!  Our country doesn’t maintain a combat force anymore.”

(Translated by Paul Ho)                 

(click pictures to enlarge    點擊圖片可放大)

       
  Anzac Commemorative Site "Anzac Day" Service held here
(photo with the red platforms) on April 25th
   every year。
澳紐軍團日(或澳新軍團日)每年的四月二十五日在這裡舉行紀念會。

       
  The graves and New Zealanders' monument 


Boat at the sea

The trench that Turkish soldiers dug  

 Lookout Gallipoli bay from the hill


天色竟是這樣凄蒼悲壯

凱末爾的故事:他曾在這裡受了槍傷。彈 片打到胸膛,被口袋裏的一只錶擋住而保全了性命。這只錶,現保存在當年協約國他們一黨的德國。而後來頒發給他的金錶,則陳列在土耳其首都安卡拉博物館。
A kemal story:  He was injured here.  A piece of shrapnel hit his chest but was blocked by the pocket watch in his top pocket.  He avoided serious injury and the watch perhaps saved his life.  This watch is now kept in Germany, a Central power allied with Turkey at that time.  Kemal later received a gold watch as an honor, which is on exhibit in the capital city of Ankara.

我發現土耳其人對他們的國父凱末爾尊敬有加。幾乎眾口一聲,沒有異議。到處貼著他的照片。可是同時期我們的國父孫中山就不一樣了。我在中國旅行的時候,火車上踫到一位青年,我問他對孫中山先生的看法,他說:哦,孫中山沒什麽。
一個和凱末爾一樣﹐推翻了數千年帝王制度的人﹐沒什麼?

I discovered that Kemal, the father of the Turkish republic, was highly respected by the Turkish people.  The sense of respect was almost unanimous, and you could see his portrait everywhere.  Sun Yat-sen, the founding father of the Republic of China and a contemporary of Kemal, on the other hand, does not command similar respect in China.  When I traveled in China on train, I asked a young person what he thought about Sun Yat-sen.  He said, “Oh, Sun Yat-sen hadn’t done much.” 

   

請點擊閲讀凱末爾當天日記中的一段。

Click the above photos to read a paragraph from Mustafa Kemal's diary.

       

想當年﹐由十八艘英國主力艦、四艘法國戰列艦和輔助艦所組成的英法聯合海軍机動部隊,
在此昂昂駛進達達尼爾的入口處。

Imagine the time when the British-French allied naval fleet sailed into Dardanelles
 from here with great form and excitement. 

 


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