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Ephesus (Efes)   以弗所  (艾菲索斯)


The Celsus Library
  羅馬王塞爾蘇斯圖書館

           (以下小圖片都可點擊放大 click small picture to enlarge)


The remains were found 8 meters below the surface of the earth.


The Prytaneion (Town Hall)


The State Agora


The structure was devoted for civic meetings.  It seated 1400 people.

 

以弗所廢墟的盛名大概僅次於意大利維蘇威火山下的龐貝城。

遊客目前在這裡看到的遺址樣貌﹐是亞歷山大大帝的一名將軍在公元前三世紀建的後羅馬時期建築群,而以弗所的歷史可追溯到更久遠﹐遠到公元前六十世紀。天哪﹐你可以想像嗎﹖中國說是有近五千年的歷史﹐它竟說有八千年!?) 以弗所的考古挖掘從1869年開始﹐到今年2006﹐算算已經挖了137年﹐才挖出百分之五。(參考官方網站 www.selcuk.gov.tr

我們參觀的時候﹐請了講解員(土耳其導遊是tour leader不允許解說﹐獲有專業執照的才可)我一面聽講一面錄音﹐怕不懂和遺漏﹐不料被我的旅伴質問﹕講解員是有copyright的。這我還是第一次知道不能隨便錄人家的音﹐只好去買書。

遠古的以弗所居民是從安納托利亞(近米索波大米)遷移來的呂底亞人。他們崇拜多神,尤其拜女神。在新石器時代(公元前8000-2000年)母系氏族的社會裏,女性崇拜是顯見的。以弗所人認為他們的城是亞馬遜女族的女王以菲西亞(Amazonian Queen Ephesia)所建。歷史記載以弗所的女性享有公民權﹐可受教育﹑投票﹑當法官等等。有一個關於亞馬遜女族的有趣傳說,大概是最早的一種女性主義吧﹕女戰士們為了有效配合拉弓射箭﹐會切掉一邊的乳房。為繁衍下代﹐會找鄰邦強壯男人交媾﹐然後殺死對方。

歷史上﹐波斯王﹑敘利亞王﹑埃及王都曾佔領過以弗所。公元前334年亞歷山大大帝將其納入版圖﹐這時期的以弗所興盛繁華到了它的黃金高峰﹐是東羅馬帝國僅次於亞力山卓的第二大城,人口達四五十萬。它崇拜的女神,希臘名字叫『亞底米』Artemis ,又譯為阿提米絲﹐羅馬名字即戴安娜,一直保有最崇高的地位﹐其他從鄰邦收編過來的眾神可增可減﹐而只有這位主事繁殖狩獵的亞底米女神是至高無上,不容爭議。 

位于愛琴海和凱斯特河交口的商港以弗所﹐後來因為地震﹑海港淤砂等原因﹐到十一世紀逐漸衰敗成村落。至今埋在土裡﹐寥無人煙。 

以弗所最被後世傳誦的一段歷史﹐記載在新約聖經的使徒行傳。使徒保羅寫給以弗所信眾的一封信就是《以弗所書》。啟示錄裡敘述的七教會﹐以弗所也列於其中。
 
我在這裡參觀時﹐腦子裡不由得浮起使徒行傳第十九章的情節﹕保羅在以弗所傳道﹐說人手造的神不是神。許多人信了﹐偶像就不要了。那鑄造神龕神像的銀器匠鼓動民眾反對保羅﹐造成動亂。暴動很快蔓延全城﹐群眾聚集在那座兩萬五千人的大劇場前高聲呼叫﹕『大哉以弗所的亞底米啊﹗』這樣連喊兩個鐘頭。這應該是以弗所最戲劇化的一段歷史吧。

The fame of Ephesus ruin is just about next to the city of Pompeii at the foot of Italy's volcano Mt. Vesuvius.

What we see today is the historical site of a group of post-Roman architectures, built by a general under Alexander the Great in 3rd Century  B.C.  The history of Ephesus itself, however, can be traced back to 60th Century B.C.  (My goodness, can you imagine?  China is said to have close to five thousand years of history, and yet Ephesus has eight thousand?! )  The archaeological digging in Ephesus started in 1869.  So far in 2006, with 137 years passed, the digging is only 5% completed.  (See the official website www.selcuk.gov.tr)

We hired a guide for our visit (Turkish tour leaders, without the specialty license, are not permitted to explain the site).  Being afraid of missing some points, I was recording while listening.  Unexpectedly, my travel companion interrupted me, saying that the guide owned the copyright of his spoken material.  This was my first time to be reminded that I shouldn't casually record the voice of another person.  Well, I would get a book then.

The ancient inhabitants of Ephesus were the Lydia people migrated from Anatolia (near Mesopotamia).  They worshiped multiple gods, especially the goddesses.  In the female society of the new Stone Age (8000 to 2000 B.C.), female worship was usual.   Ephesians believe that their city was established by Queen Ephesia of the female Amazonian tribe.  History has recorded that Ephesian females had civil rights and were entitled to education and voting.  They might even assume the position of a court judge.  There is an interesting legend that might be considered as the earliest feminism: women warriors cut off one of their breasts in order to accommodate archery.  To continue the generation they would select strong men from a neighboring country for intercourse and then kill them afterwards.

Historically, the kings of Persia, Syria and Egypt had all ruled Ephesus. Alexander the Great annexed it in 334 B.C.  In this period Ephesus reached its golden peak in prosperity, becoming the second largest city behind Alexandria in the East Roman Empire, with a population between 400 and 500 thousands.  Its goddess, named Artemis in Greek and Diana in Roman, commanded the highest respect.  Although there were other gods imported from neighboring countries, the unique position of Artemis, who took care of breeding and hunting, was undisputable.

At the cross point of Cayste River and Aegean Sea, Ephesus was a commercial port.  Because of earthquakes and silted harbor, it gradually degenerated into a village in the 11th Century.  And it's now buried under the ground, without any indication of human habitation.

The most well-read part of Ephesus's history is described in the Book of Acts of the New Testament.  Apostle Paul's letter to the Ephesus congregation is in the Book of Ephesians.  And, Ephesus is among the seven churches described in the Book of Revelation.

As I was touring the site, I could not help letting a scene to emerge in my mind.  In Chapter 19 of the Book of Acts, Paul was preaching in Ephesus.  He said that gods created by human hands could not be God.  Many people believed him and forsook idol, causing other people, agitated by the silversmiths who made silver shrines, to oppose him.  The disturbance turned into riot and spread to the entire town.  The masses gathered at the 25,000-seat theater yelling "Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!" for two hours.  This probably was the most theatrical part of the Ephesus history.

(Translated by Paul Ho)   


The underground sewer


One of the four statues in front of the Library


There was a passage underneath the gates which led to a prostitute courtyard.

The gates are just next door to the Library.

     


Public toilets
 2 meters deep waterway beneath


Bathrooms with steam pipes


Mosaic floor


沐浴是高度文明的表現。羅馬人最講究洗澡。公共澡堂是交際場所,人在那裏辯論、商議、娛樂,一待幾個鐘頭。

 兩千多年前的繁華街道

   

以弗所建於兩山之間的低谷,面向愛琴海。遊人從地勢較高的地方入口﹐順著大理石街道走,經過挖出來的神廟﹑噴泉﹑石柱﹑市府﹑劇院﹑下水道﹑會堂﹑富宅﹑市集﹑往下去遠處即可看見那座圖書館

我喜歡拿它和中國的歷史比一比﹐公元前二﹑三世紀正是戰國後期和秦朝﹐那時中國城邦用的是什麼建材﹖有什麼樣的建築﹖爲什麽中國人不用石頭?以致現在無跡可循。

I like to compare it with what's in the Chinese history.  In the 2nd and 3rd Centuries B.C., when China was in the Warring Period and under the Chin Dynasty, what were the construction materials used in Chinese cities?  What were the architectural designs?  And why was that Chinese didn't use stone for construction, causing ancient structures untraceable in modern time? 

Only 4-5% of the city has been successfully excavated

這就是可容二萬五千人的大劇場,劇場前的大街直通愛琴海港灣。看到這劇場又想起保羅的故事。他在這盛行崇拜偶像的地方傳耶穌﹐居然沒有坐牢受刑﹐被開釋的理由是『言論自由』﹐他沒有觸犯以弗所的法律。好個維護『言論自由』依法行事的以弗所官員﹗兩千年後的人都要向他們看齊。

This is the great amphitheater which could seat 25,000 people.  The road in front of the theater leads directly to the harbor of Aegean Sea.  As I stood here I thought of the story of Apostle Paul.  He was preaching the gospel of Jesus here where idol worship was so popular, and yet he was not jailed or tortured.  The reason for his release was "freedom of speech," as he didn't break the laws.  How great were the Ephesus officials who upheld "freedom of speech" and ruled according to the laws!  Even after 2,000 years, we can still learn from them.


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